The 4 best things we ate around Phoenix in September

When the Phoenix New Times food team made its rounds at restaurants, bars and pop-ups around the Valley last month, there were some standouts. The bites we enjoyed most veered a bit heavy in the carb category, with an impressive rigatoni dish from First & Last and a messy, satisfying meatball sub from Frank's New York Style Deli. But, we also were wowed by a charred but tender lamb belly, as well as a colorful cocktail perfect for sunset sipping. Here are the four best things we ate and drank in September.

Meatball Sandwich at Frank’s New York Style Deli

2301 W. Orange Drive

In late August, Yelp published a list of the best sandwiches in every state. For Arizona, Frank’s New York Style Deli landed the top spot. The tiny deli and convenience store is located off 23rd Avenue just north of Camelback Road. Yelp pointed out The Tony, a cold sandwich piled high with deli meats. We tried it, and the sandwich is remarkably well-balanced and delicious. But our favorite bite from the deli is the hot meatball sub. Tender meatballs are sliced in half so they can sit better in the tender bread. They’re topped with a herbaceous tomato gravy and melty cheese, making for a messy and satisfying meal. This casual neighborhood spot has been around for decades and easily outshines many of the trendy new sandwich shops in town.

Lamb Belly from Mas Amable

Location varies

The pop-up Mas Amable has been cooking wood-fired fare around the Valley since 2022. During a recent pop-up with The Churchill specialty grocer, Neighbor Market, and winemakers Cactus Cru, Mas Amable's team was serving a menu that included this elevated pita sandwich. The lamb belly was beautifully cooked, fork-tender with bits that had taken on char and smoke from the open grill. It's added to a plancha flatbread slathered with a spicy chermoula and piquant cucumber yogurt. A pile of pickled veg and fresh, aromatic herbs added a layer of bright flavor to this richly satisfying flatbread.

Bacon Sourdough Bolognese at First & Last

1001 N. Third Ave., #1

We'll admit, we're a little late to tasting this pasta, which has appeared off and on the menu at First & Last for the past two years. But, after one bite we're feeling better late than never. The sauce for this rigatoni dish has a pop of tang from sourdough bread crumbs, but then a rich smokiness and salinity quickly washes over. That's thanks to house-cured and smoked pork bellies and a more surprising ingredient: oak-barrel-aged fish sauce. With so much complexity and flavor, we're already thinking about the next time we can visit to taste this one-of-a-kind pasta.
Within the deep selection of craft drinks at Sotol Modern Cocktail Kitchen, there's great attention paid to showcasing desert ingredients and agave spirits of all stripes, including the elevated Gilbert bar's namesake. Sometimes, these sips get a bit of tiki flair injected as well, such as a daiquiri spiked with prickly pear. But, we were especially taken by Sotol So Good, one of the bar's signature sippers that uses smokey Sotol and coconut rum, layered with a tropical trio of pineapple, lime and orgeat. Butterfly pea flower gives the drink a striking lavender hue. The cocktail has the vibrant kick of bright fruit, balanced by the earthiness of its spirits. It's one of several intriguing sips from Sotol that's best enjoyed while taking in the rooftop views of the setting sun.