Review: We tried the best sandwich in Arizona. Is it worth the hype? | Phoenix New Times
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Review: We tried the best sandwich in Arizona. Is it worth the hype?

Yelpers said this classic Phoenix deli makes the best sandwiches in Arizona. We had to try it.
Yelp named Frank's Market and Deli the best spot to get a sandwich in Phoenix.
Yelp named Frank's Market and Deli the best spot to get a sandwich in Phoenix. Tirion Boan
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At lunchtime, the small parking lot outside the red-painted Frank's New York Style Deli is filled with work trucks. Plumbers, police officers, city workers and construction teams frequent the longstanding neighborhood joint to fill up on massive sub sandwiches.

But recently, cars have been parked all down the street and inside, the line snaking through two shelves of chips and cookies has been even longer.

In late August, Yelp released a list of the best sandwiches in every state. Frank's, an old-school spot off 23rd Avenue just north of Camelback Road, was named the best sandwich shop in Arizona.

We shared the news on Thursday, Sept. 5. The following Monday, the deli was so busy, staff turned off online ordering and shut down the phones in efforts to slow the crowds. They could barely keep up with the foot traffic.

On Wednesday at lunchtime, every seat at the small restaurant and convenience store was filled. Takeout orders flew out the door, and a large table at the back of the seating area became a community table, with solo diners opting to enjoy their sandwiches together in exchange for a seat.

So what's all the hype about? Blue-collar workers have supported this spot for decades and suddenly, a new cohort of Yelpers are flooding in. We decided to see for ourselves.

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Customers place their orders at the counter at Frank's New York Style Deli.
Tirion Boan

What to order at Frank's

Frank's offers a large menu of sandwiches including the classic B.L.T., plus pastrami, corned beef and tuna varieties.

Yelp's list specifically called out The Tony, a sub piled high with pepperoni, hot capicola and genoa salami, plus mayonnaise, mustard, lettuce, tomatoes, onion, Italian dressing and provolone cheese.

The sandwich, which costs $14.99, is enormous. A large bread roll is filled to its bursting point with layers of cold cuts which rest atop shredded lettuce bathed in an herby Italian dressing. Brightness from the dressing and tomatoes blends with creamy mayo and flavorful provolone for a deliciously balanced bite — that is, if you can get it all in one bite. These suckers are a mouthful. The sandwich is cut in two, and for those who haven't been working hard labor all morning, there's plenty to share.

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The hot meatball sub (left) and The Tony, served cold, are excellent options at Frank's New York Style Deli.
Tirion Boan
In addition to classic cold sandwiches, Frank's serves a selection of hot subs. The hot and cold varieties offer a very different lunchtime experience. To hold the cold cuts together, the crusty bread provides a sturdy and strong base. But when warmed up, it becomes tender and pillowy, encasing the warm ingredients within.

We added a meatball sub to our order, which turned out to be an excellent pick. Giant meatballs are sliced in half so they lay more flat inside the sub. They're doused in a rich, herb-flecked tomato gravy and topped with melty cheese. The meatballs are just-cooked and tender and the gravy drips from the sandwich as you dig in. Don't be surprised if you find yourself scooping it up with bites of bread to get every last drop.

Next to the counter, a cold case displays side options including pasta, potato or mac salad. We recommend the potato version, which strikes the right balance in both flavor and texture. It's creamy and a little tangy with a kick of mustard, and the potatoes are smashed with some cubes still holding their shape. The small tub makes the perfect accompaniment whether you dine in or take your lunch to go.

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Frank's is half restaurant, half convenience store.
Tirion Boan
Inside the dining room, you can enjoy a cannoli or New York-style cheesecake for dessert at the tables below framed photos of New York City landmarks and a colorful mural of the Statue of Liberty.

Across the store, there's a wall of refrigerators stocked with Arizona Iced Tea, Gatorade and energy drinks. Frank's straddles the line between restaurant and convenience store. But any neighborhood would count themselves lucky to have these sandwich chefs serving subs on the corner.

There's a reason Frank's has been serving customers since 1982. And this time around, it turns out the Yelpers were spot on.

Frank's New York Style Deli

2301 W. Orange Drive
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