Tucked into downtown Phoenix's Garfield neighborhood, there's a tiny, vintage diner serving indulgent sandwiches and $3 beer. Meet Sidewinder, the new dive where things get a little messy.
Sidewinder opened in early May and it puts the sloppy in the Cheap Sloppy Jo. Bologne and sausage sandwiches are slathered with mayo and barbecue sauce, dripping as hungry diners lift them to take a bite. When you order at the counter inside, make sure to grab some extra napkins.
Opened by chef TJ Culp and wine and hospitality pro Esther Noh, the diner concept is distinctly different from the duo's other Valley concepts. They're the team behind Melrose District date-night hotspot Progress and Sottise, the high-end French restaurant residing in a historic home downtown.
At Progress and Sottise, servers offer wine pairings and describe the delicate, elegant dishes in detail. At Sidewinder, everything comes on a paper plate and glassware is traded for plastic.
Sidewinder may be the perfect downtown spot to end the night. Perhaps you've enjoyed a jaunt around Roosevelt Row or seen a show at a local venue and are hungry for something that's big and bad for you. Pull up one of the eight stools inside the tiny diner or grab a picnic table outside to satisfy your cravings.
The Sidewinder Fries come curly and topped with chili, nacho cheese, jalapenos and sour cream. The excellent pickled carrots and jalapenos, which the menu dubs Jalapeno Escabeche, hint at the ownership team's culinary prowess. The same chili is added to the Chili Dog and put right in the bag in the Frito Pie. The Big Texan Rodeo sandwich is there for those who want to go all out, with brisket, an onion ring, American cheese and jalapenos.
The spicy peppers are also found on the menu in the form of Jalapeno Poppers, which Sidewinder proudly admits "we buy them from the frozen section." This declaration sits on the menu, just above a declaration of "homestyle cookin'!"
The other moment that might make a good fit for a visit to this little spot is when you're just heading out for the night. It's a great place for a cheap beer — Sidewinder is the "Home of the $3 Bud Heavy," and Coors, Miller and PBR are all $4. For cocktails, the John Daly is a vodka-spiked twist on an Arnold Palmer and the Naked But Not Famous is a mezcal and Aperol mix perfect for beating the heat.
Give the Sidewinder Martini, described on the menu as "dirtier than your stepsister" a miss. In it's little plastic cup, this sucker gets warm quick.
The tiny diner has very limited seating inside, but a large patio welcomes customers with picnic tables, fans and shade.
Tirion Boan
Sidewinder isn't sophisticated and the menu won't blow your socks off. But it doesn't have to. Noh and Culp's other projects prove that they can do that. It's not what Sidewinder is about. Instead, they've created a cool, neighborhood hangout with a large patio that's a little bit grungy and a whole lot of fun.
