When a new spot opens in town, we're eager to check it out, let you know our initial impressions, share a few photos, and dish about some menu items. First Taste, as the name implies, is not a full-blown review, but instead, a peek inside restaurants that have just opened — an occasion to sample a few items and satisfy curiosities (both yours and ours).
Chef Claudio Urciuoli has earned a great deal of press since he began making his mark in the Valley in the 2000s, and for good reason. The Italian-born chef, who came to the U.S. in his twenties, is known for using high-quality ingredients and preparing them simply, but in a way that brings out their best.
In essence, expert sourcing is a major component of Urciuoli's success, so it's fitting that his latest concept is simply called Source.
It opened on December 19, 2022, in Epicenter at Agritopia in Gilbert, a hip East Valley complex that’s already welcomed places like Beer Barn, Belly Kitchen + Bar, Peixoto Coffee, and UnderTow, with more on the way. Urciuoli assembled a team that includes chef Trevor Routman, who hails from Chicago, and baker Ryne Spracale.
The food and presentations — served with compostable plates and utensils — bear a resemblance to what Urciuoli previously did at Pa’La, but he’s made this concept more accessible both in its menu and pricing, with most plates falling between $10 and $15 and most bottles of wine priced under $30.
Source is modeled after the European idea of a local wine bar serving well-made dishes with honest food at a reasonable cost so people can drop in regularly. And if it takes off, he and his friend and business partner, Akshat Sethi — who also created the fast-growing Thai Chili 2 Go chain — will open more outlets.
Rustic breads and pizza crusts are the stars of the show here, thanks to the light and airy yet slightly chewy and subtly tangy characteristics of everything that comes out of the oven. The smell of freshly baked loaves permeates the entire space, making it a danger zone for anyone who can’t or won’t eat carbs. But industrial white flour is verboten here — only specially sourced whole grains are used, and Urciuoli plans to bring in more ancient grains like kamut, einkorn, and emmer.
Despite the emphasis on bread, nothing feels heavy, thanks to a Mediterranean menu (which is constantly being tweaked) that relies on top-quality meats, olive oils, beans, nuts, McClendon Farms produce, and a touch of cheese here and there. Urciuoli says he plans to add more fish and seafood as time goes on, depending on how the market responds.
One standout during a recent lunch was, unsurprisingly, a pizza. The Salsiccia ($15) was notable for its slightly charred crust, which is made with 80 percent water and allowed to stand 36 hours, making it almost impossibly crispy. It was peppered with tender, gently spicy Arcadia Meat Market Italian sausage, velvety roasted red peppers, a delicate sprinkle of mozzarella, mountain oregano, and a swipe of tangy tomato sauce.
The Controne Chickpea Hummus ($9) with flatbread was a shocker. Who knew hummus could be this exciting? It blows away every other incarnation out there thanks to silky, nutty pureed chickpeas from the Campania region of Italy, and chermoula, a blend of North African herbs and spices. Even the flatbread triangles are worth shouting about, because they're warm, golden brown, and sprinkled with za’atar — a mixture of spices and toasted sesame seeds that echo the nutty notes of the chickpeas.
Baby romaine salad dressed with a vinaigrette made with pureed pumpkin seeds and anchovies is Source's superior take on a Caesar.
Geri Koeppel
Finely grated Parmigiano, aged 24 months, and optional strips of anchovies ($2) added a salty burst that also didn’t overpower. It’s Urciuoli’s take on a Caesar salad, only cleaner and better due to the additional vegetables and feather-light dressing. A slab of bread on the side brushed with olive oil and kissed by the grill had a pleasant crunch and heady char that made this dish a meal in itself.
The Island Trollers Tuna ($15) has promise, thanks to fragrant, high-quality canned albacore on giant hunks of chewy, sour ciabatta, but the texture of the toppings, particularly the braised escarole, was a bit slimy. The side salad of leafy greens, crunchy carrots, and cucumbers — again, dressed with a light touch — delivered bright, fresh notes.
Unfortunately, the Rice Bowl ($13) wasn’t as flavorful as the Mediterranean dishes, despite the cornucopia of goodies involved. It included Koshihikari rice (a grain developed in Japan after World War II), farro, roasted vegetables, mushrooms, Controne beans, pumpkin seeds, ginger pickled cucumber, nori, and togarashi, but it came off as one-dimensional.
The compact Antipastino ($15) plate delivered decent starters like tender Castelvetrano olives, spicy almonds, slightly funky Pecorino Toscano cheese, chewy salametto, and house bread with tons of nooks and crannies. Not everything worked — the hot pepper jam tasted too much like Sriracha and the crackers were dry and crumbly — but the rest begs to be paired with a glass of wine.
One corner of Source is devoted to a mini-market selling wine, olive oil, dried pasta, and more.
Geri Koeppel
Wines can also be purchased to go, and one corner of the space is devoted to a few shelves with bottles along with imported provisions such as dry pasta and special olive oils. All beers, meanwhile, are from local darling Wren House Brewing Co.
The ambiance is minimalist chic yet bright and cheery, with black counters, white subway tiles, and wood-look furniture. For now, the patio is the place to be, because the interior only seats 15 with just a few two-tops and counter stools. Urciuoli says it’s still a work in progress; he plans to enclose the patio in the summer and add more plants for ambiance.
The bulk of the business so far has been locals who walk and bike to grab a light meal or take home a loaf of bread, he says. But Source is worth a trip to see what might be coming next, if all goes well and the idea expands. It’d be great to have a Source in every neighborhood for lighter, healthier, better-sourced options — especially from one of the best chefs in town.
Source
3150 East Ray Road, #104, Gilberteatatsource.com
