It's been less than a year since Shinji Kurita left the restaurant that still bears his name, and while Kurita's departure stings, what's remarkable is that ShinBay hasn't lost a step. We shouldn't be surprised. Restaurateur Hyunwook Lee has a nose for talent, and Kurita's replacement, veteran Chef Ken Tanaka, has the skill to carry on ShinBay's legacy while putting his personal mark on the city's most impressive omakase counter. Though the format remains the same — a lengthy multicourse tasting menu concluding with an eight- to 10-piece flight of nigiri — Tanaka's style hews more traditional than Kurita's, but only just slightly. ShinBay continues to source truly exceptional seafood, painstakingly crafted into delicate, minimal morsels that focus the senses and extract every bit of natural flavor. And while the nigiri is only half the meal, Tanaka's is exceptional — excellent shari topped with a panoply of fish prepped by the touch of a master.