Few things get Phoenicians riled up like a good plate lunch does, which is ironic because most of the plate lunches in Phoenix come from lousy Hawaiian barbecue chains. But that probably explains why Hapa Food Co. is a zoo — a tiny little restaurant that always seems to have a line of customers four or five deep, patiently waiting for crisp fried chicken smothered in a sweet garlic sauce and juicy, smoky kalua pig. The poke is exceptional, a welcome throwback to when poke was poke and not a fast food "concept." And the kalbi — saturated with a deep, sweet soy marinade — is seared on the grill to order, tender and succulent and charred around the edges. Recurring specials such as garlicky hoisin pork ribs or a whole pulehu ribeye are always great, but the biggest draw might be the malasadas — rich, eggy doughnuts fried fresh and filled to order with custard, coconut or neon purple ube. However many you think you're going to eat, double it.