Oscar's Pier 83 answers a question that nobody asked: What if Long John Silver's were actually pretty good? That might sound like a backhanded compliment, but consider it an acknowledgment that inexpensive, order-at-the-counter fare is a reality of everyday life, and there aren't enough culinary wunderkinder to meticulously handcraft cheap, artsy dinners for everybody in town. Oscar's isn't going to make you feel like you're at a seaside shack in the Keys — this is deep-fried, quick-service fare — but with most meals priced in the teens, it charges just a dollar or two more than the international megachains, and the modest premium is well spent. Choose from half a dozen types of fish for your chippy platter or fishwich, and you'll get tender filets, freshly battered and fried, steaming hot with creamy tartar sauce or a nice cocktail sauce that actually has some kick. Plump fried shrimp are particularly good, hush puppies are well-seasoned, and the clam chowder is the inartfully thick and goopy sort that you hate to admit you kind of love.