In between the car payment expense of the $250 omakase and the all-you-can-eat chumbuckets, there's a band of neighborhood sushi joints that targets the intersection of quality and affordability. In Phoenix, the former is harder to come by than the latter. But Sushi Nakano is not only among the best sushi joints in town, it's also the undisputed champion of sushi bang for your buck. For just a few dollars more than the average sushi joint, Leo Nakano offers a short menu of simple nigiri and rolls that are a quantum leap beyond his contemporaries. The texture of Nakano's rice is sublime, perfectly seasoned with the requisite balance of sour, salty and sweet. His fish is carefully sourced and expertly prepared, and his rolls — though tipping a cap to popular Americanized sushi standards — are lighter and more restrained than the usual schlocky mayo maki. Specials are always sharp, and if you really want to do a blowout meal, his omakase is an object lesson in preparing sushi creatively while still honoring its integrity.